Funchal – Capital of Madeira

Funchal travel report – sights, tips and impressions from Madeira’s capital

Landing at Madeira-Cristiano Ronaldo Airport (FNC) is considered one of the most challenging in the world due to extreme orographic conditions, in particular strong, unpredictable winds (downslope winds) and turbulent air currents caused by the nearby mountains. Pilots even require special training for the approach, which often requires a precise turn during the final approach and does not forgive any mistakes.

Furthermore, there is no instrument landing system (ILS) here, so the approach is visual, which requires a high level of concentration in difficult weather conditions. In addition, the runway is short and located directly by the sea, partly on stilts, which leaves little room for error during touchdown. When I landed here for the first time exactly 30 years ago, the runway was even shorter!

But everything goes very well during the landing and, due to the small size of the airport, we are out of the building shortly after taxiing, where, as agreed, a very nice driver – whom we booked this time via booking.com – is already waiting for us with a sign with our names on it.

Arrival in Funchal – first impressions count

The journey from the airport to the city is quite an experience in itself. The road winds through tunnels, over bridges and along steep slopes. Madeira is not an island that tries to ingratiate itself – it immediately shows that it has character. And Funchal is its heartbeat.

After a relatively short and relaxed drive, the capital of Madeira lies before us like an amphitheatre: white houses, red roofs, lush greenery and behind it the Atlantic Ocean, glistening in the afternoon sun as if to say, “Welcome, you two – make yourselves comfortable.” It’s already clear that this Funchal travelogue will be a relaxed one.

Our first hotel, the “Hotel Madeira”, is not far from the old town, and on our first walk we notice that time passes differently here. The people seem relaxed, friendly, almost as if they have conspired to give every visitor a little bit of serenity. It is precisely this atmosphere that makes Funchal so special right from the start.

Old Town & Zona Velha – Funchal’s lively heart

We immerse ourselves in the Zona Velha, the old town. Narrow streets, cobblestones, small restaurants, painted doors that tell stories – some funny, some poetic, some just beautiful.

It smells of garlic bread, grilled fish and flowers. And everywhere you hear voices, laughter and the clinking of glasses. Funchal is lively, but never hectic.

In the Mercado dos Lavradores, we marvel at fruits that look as if someone had squeezed the tropics into a market hall. Passion fruit in all varieties, dragon fruit, bananas that are smaller than usual but twice as aromatic. The flower women in their traditional costumes smile as if they had all day.

By cable car to Monte – Funchal from a bird’s eye view

The next morning, we want to take the cable car up to Monte and stroll through the Tropical Garden when we reach the top. I remember this place as a very special one; a place where you wonder if nature is just in a particularly good mood here. Ferns, palm trees, waterways, works of art – a walk that feels like a mini holiday within a holiday.

But as life sometimes goes, a sign at the valley station informs us that the cable car is unavailable until April due to maintenance work. Therefore, there are no corresponding pictures!

City tour with the hop-on hop-off bus

Instead of the disappointment with the cable car, we buy a ticket for the local hop-on hop-off bus. The weather is good and we manage to get two seats on the open upper deck of the vehicle. Unfortunately, the socket for the familiar red earplugs is defective, so we can’t hear anything from the audio guide. But our eyes are fine, and what we see inspires us even without sound.

The tour ends in the small town of Camara do Lobos, where we get off and find a seat in one of the small restaurants at the harbour. We like it so much that we stay much longer than planned and only after tasting wine, poncha and local rum do we trudge back to the Red Line stop to return to our hotel.

Funchal in the evening – enjoyment, light and lightness

In the evening, we sit on the harbour promenade. The sun slowly sinks behind the hills, the lights of the city are reflected in the water, and somewhere someone is playing the guitar.

We try espetada, drink poncha and end the day in a restaurant that the driver recommended to us the day before. Funchal has this special way of enveloping you – not loud, not intrusive, but warm and friendly. It is precisely this mixture that makes Funchal’s sights so much more than just “items on a list”.

FAQ about Funchal – Madeira explained in a nutshell – Funchal tips

What should you definitely see in Funchal?

The most important sights include the old town (Zona Velha), the Mercado dos Lavradores, the cable car to Monte, the Tropical Garden and the traditional basket sledge ride, which we did not take part in due to protests from my former lover and now wife.

How many days should you plan for Funchal?

Two to three days are enough to see the main highlights. If you want to explore the gardens, museums or culinary experiences in more depth, you can easily stay longer.

When is the best time to visit Funchal?

Funchal has a mild climate all year round. Spring and autumn are particularly popular, but winter is also an excellent time to visit. We were last here in Madeira at the end of January.

Is Funchal a good starting point for exploring Madeira?

Yes, absolutely. The city is ideally located, well connected and offers plenty of accommodation. It is the perfect starting point for hikes, levada tours and excursions. However, we only stayed in Funchal for four nights and then stayed in other hotels located in the south-west and north-east of the island.

Is Funchal expensive?

Compared to many other European island destinations, Funchal is moderately priced. Food, transport and activities are mostly fairly priced. Of course, it always depends on whether you go to one of the restaurants that cater to cruise passengers or one where the locals like to eat and drink!

Conclusion – Funchal remains in our hearts

Funchal is not a city you just “tick off” your list. It is a city you experience. A city that takes its time and gives you time in return. We have also decided that this will not be our last stay in Funchal.

Anyone visiting Madeira cannot miss Funchal – and that’s a good thing. Because this city is the perfect gateway to an island that you will not soon forget.